Abandoned Resort

Abandoned Resort

Interesting story that I learned in Takaungu was about this abandoned resort on the beach outside the village. My host father walked me through the place, which had been empty and decaying for a long time, but throughout which you could still see traces of the life that used to be there, including bed frames and kitchen supplies. After walking me through, my host dad gave me the whole story. When he was a younger man, living away from the village, he received word that an Italian business man had illegally built a resort on his land along the beach front. His father had tried unsuccessfully to remove the Italian so my host dad returned and got entangled in a long web of corruption and lies that ended with the Italian being evicted by the government and ordered to pay damages. However, before the damages were paid, the Italian drowned, supposedly committing suicide. My host dad is still convinced though that he is still alive and staged the death as a way of evading payments. The Italian was also apparently involved in illegal smuggling, and my host dad showed me inside the resort where he had built double walls with secret passages leading to underground tunnels.

Village Stay Host Family

Village Stay Host Family

This a photo of me and my host family in the village. This host family was by far my greatest gift from my entire trip to Kenya. They were so welcoming and friendly and especially my brothers were constantly engaging me and asking me questions as well as teaching me so much about themselves and what its like to grow up in Islam, about village life, or about being a Kenyan in general. My host sister I don’t think ever really got used to me, and our relationship consisted of her staring at me with a furrowed brow from across the room until eventually leaving despite all my attempts to be her friend (I’ll chalk it up to her being 1 year old). Ill miss the long discussions with my host dad, my host moms amazing food (even though I undoubtedly added 10 pounds I have no regrets) and just being a part of their family.

Pwani si Kenya (The Coast is not Kenya)

Pwani si Kenya (The Coast is not Kenya)

My whole trip got flipped on its head when we moved to the coast. The coast of Kenya is part of the “Swahili coast” of Africa stretching from as far north as Mogadishu all the way down to Mozambique and origin of the Swahili language and culture. Swahili language (as well as culture in many ways) is a blend of Arabic and Bantu, with a little legacy of the Portugese colony mixed in. Although the Portugese were here on the Kenyan coast for a few hundred years, the only Swahili word I know derived is “meza” for table. It is true that the coast is NOT Kenya, purely in the sense that the culture and people here are more unique than any other place we have travelled in Kenya. The food, religion (vast majority are muslim) and language are heavily influenced by the legacies of trading and exchanges with the middle east and other countries on the Indian ocean. This photo is a view of a “creek” leading in from the sea to the village where I lived for a week “Takaungu” about 30-40 miles north of Mombasa and just south of Kilifi. The start of the village stay began my eventual 9-week stay on the Kenyan coast in Takaungu, Mombasa and Lamu.